Kargopol

Kargopol is a «bear land» or a «crow field», one of the oldest trading towns of the Russian North, famous for the traditions of artisans and merchant dynasties. Decorated with an ornamented pattern of white-stone temples, framed by a ring of old wooden churchyards, it stores artifacts of headline history in amber of a frozen time.

Photo: Nikolay Gernet

Kargopol is considered the same age as Moscow. Presumably it was founded in the XII century and became an important trading center on the way to Pomorie. The city is located near the lake Lache, on the left bank of the Onega River, leading to the White Sea , where on the Kiy Islan in its mouth opens the road to the Solovetsky Islands, on the east to Arkhangelsk , Mezen and Pechora, and on the west to Europe.

Photo: Andrey Parshin

Wood, furs, iron, fish, and, of course, salt, were highly-demanded goods of the Kargopol trade. Merchants from Vologda and Belozersk were banned to produce salt at sea. It is not surprising that in the 16th century Kargopol became one of the nineteen «oprichnina cities» providing for sovereign needs, and foreigners mention it among the top ten largest cities of the Russian state.

Photo: Tourist Information Center (TIC) of the Arkhangelsk Region

The centuries long history of Kargopol is rich in significant events and facts. On behalf of Novgorod, the town competed with Moscow for the northern lands, Gleb Kargopolsky with a regiment of soldiers is mentioned among the participants of the Kulikovskaya Battle, and in the Time of Troubles the town repelled the attacks of the Polish-Lithuanian troops three times, Kargopol was protected by a reliable wooden defense construction. Nowadays, only «valushki » remind of the fortress — earthen dikes where the walls and nine towers stood.

The urban landscape of Kargopol is determined by beautiful examples of Russian white-stone architecture. The Church of the Nativity of the Virgin and the Annunciation Church are the masterpieces of the Kargopol stone ornamental pattern. Painter and art critic I. E. Grabar compared the elegance of the decor of the Annunciation Church with the decoration of the palaces of the Florentine Renaissance. The stone-cutting masters performed the work so subtly that the stone is perceived as soft and supple as wood.

The central architectural ensemble of Kargopol is the Cathedral or the New Trade Square. The Nativity of Christ Cathedral is located here, the first stone church of the town, now presents a unique collection of painted «heaven» of the Kargopol historical-architectural and art museum. The central exhibition hall of the museum is located in the building of the nearby Vvedensky church, in the cellars of which in 1812 the property of the imperial family that was taken out of Moscow was hidden. Above all the temples of Kargopol, a sixty meter stone bell tower, built on Cathedral Square for the cancelled arrival of Catherine II, rises . The melodic chimes of bells are widely scattered over the Onega River and the entire district. You can hear it, for example, during the traditional festival of bell art «Crystal Ringing».
Another bright city event is the Festival of Russian craftsmen. Kargopol has long been famous for its craftsmen, it used to be the center of gold embroidery business, weaving, embroidery and fettling, painters and silversmiths, copper founders and blacksmiths, potters and carvers of wood had their workshops here, squirrel fur from Kargopol was highly valued.

The most famous craft brand of Kargopol today is perhaps a painted clay toy. Its distinguishing feature is the fabulousness of heroes and plots. One of the most popular characters was and remains Polkan — a half-horse half-man with a full beard, medals and epaulettes. You can find more information about the clay tow and even try to mold it yourself at the Center of folk crafts «Bereginya» . And not far from Kargopol, in the village of Grinevo , there is a «memorial place» dedicated to Ulyana Ivanovna Babkina, one of the most famous guardians of the traditions of Kargopol clay toys.

Photo: Tourist Information Center (TIC) of the Arkhangelsk Region

Kargopol crafts have always been a family affair, the secrets of craftsmanship have been passed down from generation to generation. But Kargopol is not only famous for the names of its artisans and merchant dynasties. Fyodor Savelievich Pryadunov, the founder of one of the first in the world and the first oil field in Russia, was born here. Another famous resident of Kargopol is Alexander Andreevich Baranov , who at the end of the 18th century became the first Chief Ruler of Russian America. Every summer in Kargopol, the gastronomic holiday Baranie Sunday (Ram Sunday) takes place, partly associated with the name of Alexander Baranov, but more connected to the ceremony of sacrificing a lamb on Ilyin’s day. That’s why the ram — «the lamb on the burning fire» is depicted on the arms of Kargopol.

In September 2020, Kargopol was included in the Russian Association of the most beautiful villages and towns.

Photo in the upper block: Tourist Information Center (TIC) of the Arkhangelsk Region, Maria Egorova, Nikolay Gernet, Alexei Karachev, Valentina Spiridonova

You can get to Kargopol by train. The train passes through Nyandoma station, from which a bus runs to Kargopol.

You can take a bus 520 at the bus station of Arkhangelsk.

You can go by car from Arkhangelsk (highway R-1), Moscow (highway M-8, then turn onto highway R-2) or from St. Petersburg (highway via Vytegra)